Gjirokastër, Albania: Stone Streets, Living History & Timeless Charm
Explore Gjirokastër, Albania’s UNESCO-listed “City of Stone.” Discover top attractions, where to eat, and why this hillside town is one of the Balkans’ best-kept secrets.
Welcome to Gjirokastër: The City of Stone
Perched on the eastern slopes of the Gjerë Mountains, Gjirokastër is a living museum of Albania’s Ottoman past. Nicknamed the “City of Stone” for its iconic slate-roofed houses and cobblestone streets, Gjirokastër is one of the most atmospheric towns in the Balkans. With its rich history, dramatic architecture, and slower pace of life, a visit here feels like stepping into another century.
Why Visit Gjirokastër?
- UNESCO World Heritage Site status since 2005
- Authentic Ottoman-era architecture
- Rich historical and cultural heritage
- Excellent food, views, and hospitality
- Close to other southern gems like Saranda and Përmet
Top Things to Do in Gjirokastër
1. Gjirokastër Castle (Kalaja e Gjirokastrës)
Towering over the city, this massive fortress offers panoramic views and centuries of stories. Inside, you’ll find a military museum, old cannons, a U.S. fighter plane from the Cold War era, and the eerie remains of a prison used during multiple regimes. Don’t miss walking the castle walls at sunset.
2. Old Bazaar (Pazari i Vjetër)
The heart of the town is its charming old bazaar, lined with artisan shops selling handmade rugs, woodwork, silver jewelry, and antiques. Stop for a coffee in one of the cozy, old-style cafés and soak in the slow rhythm of life.
3. Zekate House (Zekatëve House)
One of the finest examples of traditional Ottoman architecture in Albania, this fortified house gives you an authentic glimpse of how wealthy families once lived. It features stone walls, carved wooden ceilings, and breathtaking views from the top floor.
4. Ethnographic Museum (Birthplace of Enver Hoxha)
Set in the former home of Albania’s communist dictator, this museum focuses on traditional Gjirokastrian life. It’s full of household items, textiles, and displays that show how people lived over the centuries.
5. The Cold War Tunnel
Beneath the castle lies a top-secret Cold War-era bunker. With 80+ rooms built in the 1970s to protect Albania’s elite from nuclear war, it’s an eerie yet fascinating look at the country’s communist past.
Best Places to Eat in Gjirokastër
Albanian cuisine shines in Gjirokastër with mountain influences, slow-cooked meats, and homemade specialties.
- Taverna Tradicionale Kardhashi – Traditional flavors with a local feel.
- Taverna Kuka – Great terrace, warm service, and generous portions.
- Gjoca Restaurant – A little hidden but highly recommended for its village-style cooking.
- Kodra – Great for panoramic views of the city and classic Albanian dishes.
Local specialties to try:
- Qifqi – Rice balls with herbs, unique to Gjirokastër.
- Pasha qofte – Creamy soup with tiny meatballs.
- Oven-baked lamb with yogurt (Tavë Kosi).
- Homemade raki, often served with warm hospitality.
Where to Stay
You’ll find charming accommodations in historic stone houses and boutique hotels:
- Stone City Hostel – Friendly, well-located, and perfect for backpackers or digital nomads.
- Hotel Kalemi – Traditional Ottoman house turned boutique hotel.
- Hotel Gjirokastra – Family-run, cozy, and beautifully restored.
- Guesthouse Hani i Xheblatit – A peaceful stay with an authentic vibe.
Events to Catch
- Gjirokastër National Folklore Festival (every 5 years): A major cultural event featuring Albanian traditional music and dance.
- Seasonal artisan markets and street music in the summer months.
Best Time to Visit
- May to October: Ideal weather for sightseeing and exploring.
- July–August: Warmest months with lively evenings and events.
- Spring and fall: Fewer tourists, fresh mountain air, and perfect lighting for photography.
Getting to Gjirokastër
- From Tirana: ~3.5 to 4.5 hours by car or bus
- From Saranda: ~1.5 hours by car
- From Berat or Përmet: Scenic and well-connected
Pro tip: The drive into Gjirokastër is steep and winding—plan accordingly if driving yourself.
Final Thoughts: A City That Tells a Story
Gjirokastër isn’t just a destination—it’s an experience. Every cobblestone, alleyway, and carved wooden ceiling tells a story of resilience, tradition, and culture. Whether you’re a history buff, a photographer, or a curious traveler looking for something real, Gjirokastër offers one of the most authentic experiences in Albania.
